Just West of La Havana lies the Pinar del Rio province, Cuba’s tobacco heartland, where life is unlike anywhere else in the country. One of the most beautiful regions of the island, boasting lush and picturesque scenery, Pinar del Rio is surrounded by a string of rounded limestone mountains while large tobacco fields lie in their shades, around the city of Viñales.
A lot more laid-back than in the rest of Cuba, the atmosphere in this region is serene. Exploring the region is a pleasure for the traveler looking to learn about the history of tobacco in the country. Unlike the harvesting of sugar cane, which involves hard, back breaking work, the cultivation of tobacco is considered as refined and elegant, almost like an art. Plantations are generally small, with a focus on producing the highest quality tobacco rather than on quantity. Here everything is done by hand by experienced seasoned workers, form the picking of the leaf to the rolling of the cigars.
Pinar del Rio was a surprisingly under-developed region for a long time, neglected by the successive administrations, until the revolution undertook to bring it up to par with the rest of the country. However, rural life still reminds one of 19th century lifestyle, for example with a extensive use of oxen and mules for transportation.
The hectic capital of the province, Pinar del Rio, located about 178km from Havana, provides the only exception to the tranquil atmosphere of the entire area. The settlement was created in the 1570’s but only started developing in the late 18th century.
The main attraction of the Pinar del Rio province is the beautiful Sierra de los Organos, a protected valley lying in the north, dominated by the odd shaped limestone mountains known as mogotes. A 27km ride along a narrow road leads to the charming town of Viñales, with streets line with colorful houses and a lovely shaded plaza where a few lively music venues provide some entertainment.
This guide to the Pinar del Rio province was written by a
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